Larry Leger and Sharon Knight, of Louisiana, came up Glacier National Park on a tour of the West. With the Going-to-the-Sun Road closed over Logan Pass at the time, they decided to extend their stay, traveling to Canada and then Yellowstone National Park.

“We delayed our departure by three days,” Leger said. “It was worth it. This is impressive.”

Leger was standing next to the Big Drift on the Going-to-the-Sun Road when it opened to vehicles July 13. A hundred feet of snow towered behind him.

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After 23 miles of dusty potholed road and a stop off at the Polebridge Mercantile for a hot turkey sandwich to add to my lunch, I pulled my camera from my backpack to shoot the stunning expanse of Bowman Lake in the spring – lake blue and mountains draped in white.

The shot didn’t happen.

In my rush must-hike-because-the-sun-is-finally-shining moment, I forgot a few things for my hike to Akokala Lake in the North Fork region of Glacier National Park. My memory card was at home, left in my computer; and as I would come to learn five miles later, so were my much-needed snowshoes.

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For 59 miles, the North Fork of the Flathead River snakes from the Canadian border to its confluence with the Middle Fork.

It twists and turns along the western boundary of Glacier National Park through rich floodplains teeming with diverse greenery and wildlife.

Floaters on the robust river round each bend to new views of mountains, dappled with snow in early summer and waning to gold by fall.

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If you’re looking for a quiet place to enjoy just outside Glacier National Park, head up the road to Polebridge for a truly Montana experience.

Located one mile from the northwestern entrance to the park, the Polebridge Mercantile and Northern Lights Saloon is an oasis for the weary traveler. Besides amenities such as gas and groceries, the “Merc” offers world-class pastries and a custom roasted Polebridge blend of coffee. Check out a rustic cabin within walking distance of the old store.

The saloon is the ideal place to grab a bite of pizza or wild game over a cool frosty beverage, which taste even better after a night or two of backcountry camping or a day hike across the park’s border.

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When the national scenic trails system was created four decades ago, the goal was to build a walking path across the United States.

That goal came closer to reality in March, when President Obama signed a bill creating the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail and two others. They are the first such trails designated in 26 years.

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According to a map posted on the Pacific Northwest Trail Association website, the east end of the trail starts in Glacier Park at Chief Mountain Customs near the south edge of Waterton Lake and passes through Polebridge — and a good part of the North Fork –  on its way to Eureka and, eventually, the Pacific Coast at Cape Alava.

I awoke to a thump-thump-thump sound of fresh spring snow blowing off the trees and landing on the metal roof.

It was morning in North Fork Country.

Situated next to Glacier National Park’s western boundary about 20 miles south of the Canadian border, Polebridge offers visitors a relaxed attitude and sweeping views of the Livingston Range to the east and the Whitefish Range to the west.

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Beneath: a bed of soft sand pressing damp and firm against shoulder blades.

Above: a glittering sky, starry pinpoints against unlimited black, deep as time.

All around: the song of the current, a quiet lullaby of water laughing, tumbling, spilling over stone.

Perfectly still. Deceptively peaceful.

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