Tag Archives: Glacier National Park

Frank Vitale: Montana Faces New Threat to Its Wildest Lands

Several Types of Public Lands
Several types of public lands: Flathead National Forest is in the foreground, left and right; Montana’s Coal Creek State Forest, including Cyclone Lake, is in the middle distance; Glacier National Park stretches across the background.

Founding NFPA member Frank Vitale gets some virtual ink with this well thought out opinion piece appearing in several newspapers, including the Flathead Beacon . . .

It was early summer in 1992, in the northern Whitefish Range. Four riders were moving slowly along the narrow rocky ridge on Trail to where it joined Trail , and eventually up to the top of Tuchuck Mountain. I was told that the name “Tuchuck” in the Kootenai language means “the thumb.”

It was a beautiful sunny day with a light westerly breeze. Wildflowers were in full view everywhere. Some of the open subalpine slopes looked as if they were rototilled with clumps of dirt overturned and rocks strewn everywhere. Obviously, grizzly bears were working over the slopes and digging up the succulent roots of glacier lilies, biscuitroot, sweet vetch and other favorite plants in these subalpine meadows.

I was one of those four riders, trailing one of my young mules. I’d ridden and hiked this trail many times before, and in some hunting seasons, packed out elk. I know this country well. Although it’s been a number of years since I led a packstring up into the northern Whitefish Range, I remember the view from our vantage point on that day. Looking east, from north to south, one could view the start of the Canadian Rockies clear over to the high peaks in southern Alberta, and the whole western expanse of Glacier National Park clear down to the Great Bear Wilderness and the Middle Fork of the Flathead River.

Looking northwest, one could see clear into the rugged peaks of southeastern British Columbia, and south all the way down to the Cabinet Mountain Wilderness and beyond.

I reflect back on my many years and many miles in the saddle leading a packstring of mules across some of the wildest country left in the Northern Rockies. This includes the Bob Marshall Wilderness, Badger-Two Medicine, Rocky Mountain Front, Scapegoat, Great Bear, wild Swan, and the Whitefish Range. This country has been the center of my universe for nearly 50 years.

Fast forward to September 2012. A diverse group of folks from different backgrounds, viewpoints and interests were invited to sit down and form a citizen’s advisory to help the Flathead National Forest update and revise a portion of their new management plan for the Whitefish Mountain Range on the Glacier View Ranger District. That group, in which I was asked to participate, was officially named the Whitefish Range Partnership Agreement. A total of 30 people made up this collaborative. They represented motorized recreation, mountain biking, hiking, landowners, business owners, Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes, Montana Logging Association, Stoltz Lumber, wildlife organizations, Backcountry Horsemen, hunting and fishing groups and wilderness organizations.

The Forest Service provided the framework in which we could work, and they gave us the support, expertise, and encouragement to see this collaborative succeed. This dedicated bunch of people stayed together until the collaborative reached consensus in 2018. Remarkably, the Forest Service adopted nearly 95 percent of what the group recommended to incorporate into the new Forest Plan Revision.

The partnership had its ups and downs and disagreements, but in the end, everyone walked away feeling good about what could be accomplished when people sit down, roll up their sleeves, and have meaningful conversations on what’s important.

For me, it was folks who ordinarily would have never supported wilderness in the North Fork, but in the end came together to support protection in some of the last unroaded wildlands left in the Whitefish Range.

So fast forward to 2026. Recently, the Senate Energy Natural Resource Committee (SENRC) voted on S140 – the Wildfire Protection Act of 2025. Attached to this bill is a provision to repeal the Roadless Rule, the very rule that protected the North Fork proposed wilderness that the Whitefish Range Partnership worked so hard and for so long to reach a consensus.

Do you remember a senator from Utah by name of Mike Lee? He chairs the SENRC, and just last year he introduced a bill to sell off large swaths of our public lands. Another name to remember is Steve Daines, one of Montana’s senators who has been trying for years to undo protections for some of our wildest landscapes in Montana. Every Republican on the SENRC voted to repeal a landmark decision created back in 2001, that had remarkable bipartisan support with the vast majority of Americans supporting it.

When the Roadless Rule was first developed, it was the most extensive public engagement process in the history on management of public lands in the United States. When talk of a possible recission of the Roadless Rule was being announced by the Trump Administration, nearly 99 percent of the comments were in favor of keeping the Roadless Rule intact.

Steve Daines and Mike Lee are clearly out of step on this issue. Some of our best unprotected wild country could very well be on the chopping block. This includes places like the North Fork Wildlands, Badger-Two Medicine, wild Swan Range, and the Rocky Mountain Front.

These wildlands are the source of our clean water, clean air, abundant fish and wildlife. They’re a place where we can experience wild nature and they make us better people.

For me, the seeds of conservation and the love of wild nature were sown as a young boy with pant legs rolled up, with fishing pole in hand, wading clear mountain streams catching wild brookies.

I’d like to end with a quote from Aldo Leopold’s memoir, A Sand County Almanac:

“To those devoid of imagination, a blank place on the map is a useless waste; to others, the most valuable part.”

 

Study documents drastic mountain goat decline in Glacier Park

Mountain Goat - David Restivo-NPS
Mountain Goat – David Restivo-NPS

Changing climate seems to be the biggest factor, along with increased park visitation . . .

A long-running citizen science program in Glacier National Park has observed a marked decrease in the population of mountain goats since 2008, with scientists concerned that a warming alpine climate could be detrimental to the future of the species.

In a study published in the journal “Ecosphere” in January, researchers with Glacier National Park and the U.S. Geological Survey found from 2008 to 2019 the number of goats observed throughout the park declined by 45%.

“As the largest non-hunted, native population in the contiguous United States, this raises concerns about native mountain goat populations at the southern extent of the range,” according to the study, which states that “climate appears to play a large role” in population shifts.

Continue reading at the Daily Montana . . .

Bob Haraden, noted Glacier Park superintendent, dies at 100

From a North Fork perspective, Bob Haraden was a good guy to have around in those days. According to the Hungry Horse News article

Haraden also received the “Man of the Year” award from the Wilderness Society for his involvement in external environmental issues such as the proposed Cabin Creek coal mine in British Columbia and other oil and gas development outside the park.

Cabin Creek was a proposed mine up the North Fork of the Flathead River and had great potential to harm the water quality of the pristine waterway.

Continue reading . . .

The missing lynx of Glacier Park

A Canada lynx caught on remote camera in Glacier National Park on Sept. 17, 2020 - Glacier NP
A Canada lynx caught on remote camera in Glacier National Park on Sept. 17, 2020 – Glacier NP

The Flathead Beacon had a nice article on the Canada lynx population in Glacier Park. John Waller, of course, gets a significant mention . . .

As a wildlife biologist studying rare and elusive carnivores in Glacier National Park, John Waller has spent much of his career trying to gain a better understanding of species that are genetically adapted to avoid human detection. In other words, whether he’s stalking wolverines, tracking grizzly bears or hounding fishers, Waller has grown accustomed to getting skunked in the field.

And yet, due in large part to his patience and tenacity, Waller’s trailblazing work has produced some of the best population estimates about the hardest-to-track critters, including a project he engineered 15 years ago to produce the first DNA-based population study of wolverines in Glacier.

“Ever since I started working here, my approach has been to kind of fill in our knowledge gaps and try to determine what we know and what we don’t know,” Waller said. “Typically, the things we don’t know, we don’t know for a pretty good reason — because they involve a species that’s difficult and expensive to monitor.”

Continue reading . . .

Vehicle reservations for Glacier National Park go online March 2 at 8 am

Mountain edge in foreground (Tinkham Mountain) with glacier in background (Pumpelly Glacier) - Glacier NP, Jacob W. FrankHere’s the latest on this year’s “vehicle reservation” (they are not called “tickets” anymore) system for gaining entrance to Glacier National Park.

Highlights:

    • Tickets …er, uh… vehicle reservations will be required to enter the park’s Going-to-the-Sun (GTSR) corridor and at Polebridge.
    • A separate reservation is required for the GTSR and for Polebridge. GTSR reservations are good for 3 days, between 6:00am and 4:00pm; Polebridge reservations are good for only 1 day, between 6:00am and 6:00pm.
    • Vehicle reservations will be required from May 27 to September 11. They will be available 120 days in advance on a rolling window starting March 2 at 8:00am. Like last year, reservations cost $2.00.
    • Vehicle reservations can be purchased from recreation.gov, either online or through their call center.

See the press release for more details.

North Fork specific details not mentioned in the press release (Camas Road transit, local boating access, etc.) will be discussed at the Interlocal on February 9.

Glacier National Park Announces Plans for 2022 Ticket System

Going-to-the-Sun Road
Going-to-the-Sun Road

From today’s press release . . .

WEST GLACIER, Mont. [December 13, 2021] – Visitors to Glacier National Park in 2022 can expect to use a ticket system to access portions of the park from May 27 through September 11, 2022.

This will be the second year of the pilot ticket system in the park, designed to manage high traffic volumes within the park and avoid gridlock.

  • To alleviate congestion, one ticket per vehicle will again be required to enter the Going-to-the-Sun Road (GTSR) at the West Entrance, St. Mary Entrance, and the new Camas Entrance.
  • In 2022, a ticket per vehicle will also be required at the Polebridge Ranger Station to visit the North Fork area of the park.
  • The GTSR and North Fork tickets will be two separate tickets. The park anticipates a portion of tickets becoming available by early March. Like last year, visitors will need to set up an account on Recreation.gov to obtain tickets. Although the park does not charge for the tickets, Recreation.gov charges a $2 nonrefundable service fee.
  • Tickets will not be required at the St. Mary Entrance prior to the full opening of the GTSR, typically in late June. Once snow removal and road preparations are complete and the road opens to vehicle traffic to Logan Pass, tickets will be required at the St. Mary entrance through September 11, 2022.
  • The park will offer three-day tickets for GTSR rather than the seven-day ticket offered last year, and one-day tickets for the North Fork.
  • The Apgar and Sprague Creek campgrounds will require advance reservations in addition to Fish Creek and St. Mary campgrounds. Reservations will be available on Recreation.gov in 2022. Rising Sun and Avalanche campgrounds will remain first come, first served. The park anticipates all campgrounds to be operating in 2022.

The 2021 pilot of the ticket system successfully reduced traffic on GTSR during peak hours and circumvented the need to fully close access to GTSR due to congestion an estimated 35 times. This was a major accomplishment despite 2021 visitation numbers currently boasting the second highest on record for the park. Avoiding gridlock also ensured access to emergency vehicles and prevented severe vehicle back-ups onto Highway 2 outside the park.

In addition to the ticket, each vehicle entering the park is required to have an entrance pass for any entry point into the park. These passes could include any one of the following: a $35 vehicle pass, good for seven days; a valid Interagency Annual/Lifetime Pass; or a Glacier National Park Annual Pass.

Visitors with lodging, camping, transportation, or commercial activity reservations within the GTSR corridor can use their reservation for entry in lieu of a $2 ticket. (The North Fork area does not offer lodging, transportation or commercial services, and camping is first come, first served.)

Park shuttles will operate in 2022. Service levels are still to be determined.

The park anticipates continued congestion at Two Medicine and Many Glacier. As in past years, entry will be temporarily restricted when these areas reach capacity. Visitors are encouraged to plan their visit outside of peak hours (10:00 am to 2:00 pm). Visitors with service reservations (e.g. boat tours, lodging, horseback ride, guided hikes) in these valleys will be permitted entry during temporary restrictions.

Park staff are currently working on details for a utility project this summer that may require the west side of Going-to-the-Sun Road to be closed at night, except for emergency vehicles. More details on this project will be forthcoming, but visitors should anticipate a late night through early morning closure from Apgar to Lake McDonald Lodge from June to September.

Recreation.gov is the designated partner of 12 federal agencies for making reservations at 4,200 facilities and activities, and over 113,000 individual reservable sites across the country. While they are a close partner, their website is not operated by Glacier National Park.

Additional details about the ticketed system are still in development. The park website will provide updates as more information becomes available.

North Fork presentation on Glacier Park’s 2022 ticketed entry plans, Dec 13, 10am

As many of you have already heard, Glacier National Park is extending their ticketed entry system to cover the North Fork Entrance for the 2022 tourist season. Representatives will present information on the park’s traffic management plans, including North Fork-specific details, at 10:00am on Monday, December 13 at Home Ranch Bottoms (HRB).

There’s not much room at HRB and COVID is still an issue, so this will be a “hybrid” meeting, mostly handled online via Zoom, with a small number of presenters and representatives physically present. Here’s the Zoom meeting information:

Time: Dec 13, 2021 10:00 AM Mountain Time (US and Canada)

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Meeting ID: 823 6703 5408
Passcode: 822241

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Kate Hammond named Glacier Park’s interim superintendent

Kate Hammond
Kate Hammond

Kate Hammond, deputy regional director for the National Park Service’s intermountain region, will be Glacier Park’s interim superintendent…

Glacier National Park has named a temporary successor to replace outgoing Superintendent Jeff Mow, who recently announced his retirement from the park’s top administrative position, which he’s held since 2013.

Kate Hammond, who since 2016 has served as the National Park Service’s deputy regional director of the intermountain region, supervising park units in Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, and New Mexico, and who formerly worked as superintendent at Little Bighorn Battlefield Center in Montana and at Valley Forge National Historical Park near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, will assume the interim position after the new year, when Mow’s retirement takes effect.

Although Mow will retire as chief of Glacier Park, he spent the summer on a temporary detail overseeing the National Park Service’s Alaska region, an administrative maneuvering that came just as the agency’s Crown Jewel debuted its controversial new ticketed entry system.

Read more . . .

Glacier Park lynx survey complete; data analysis begins

An image of a lynx captured by a trail camera during a three-year population survey recently completed by researches in Glacier National ParkA three-year Glacier Park lynx population survey just finished up and researchers are now looking at what the data tells them . . .

Like fur-covered ghosts they silently stalk the forests of Glacier National Park.

Little is known about the population of Canada Lynx — rarely glimpsed by visitors — that make the Crown of the Continent their home, but a recently completed three-year scientific study is hoping to change that.

The first-ever comprehensive lynx population survey in the park, funded by the Glacier National Park Conservancy and conducted in collaboration with Alissa Anderson, John Waller and Dr. Dan Thornton, hopes to finally shed light on mysterious feline’s population densities and preferred habitat inside Glacier National Park…

Continue reading . . .

Glacier National Park: Mapping Threats to Wilderness Character

Mountain edge in foreground (Tinkham Mountain) with glacier in background (Pumpelly Glacier) - Glacier NP, Jacob W. Frank
Mountain edge in foreground (Tinkham Mountain) with glacier in background (Pumpelly Glacier) – Glacier NP, Jacob W. Frank

OK. this is pretty impressive. Below is the lead-in to an excellent story by the Missoulian’s inimitable Rob Chaney about a mapping study just completed by Brad Blickhan and Jillian McKenna concerning the wilderness character of Glacier National Park. If you can’t get past the newspaper’s paywall, just jump straight to the study’s immersive web page. You won’t regret it . . .

Two things about Glacier National Park might seem obvious but aren’t. First, for all its million wild acres of peaks and lakes, Glacier is not legally wilderness. And second, for all the satellites, traffic counters, lidar scanners and other gizmos monitoring activity in the park, we don’t have a good measuring stick showing how its wild qualities have changed over time…

Which brings us to that measuring stick and Brad Blickhan, Glacier’s wilderness and wild and scenic river corridor manager. Blickhan and colleague Jillian McKenna spent much of last year developing a “wilderness character” analysis of the park…

Read more . . .